San Cristobal Island

Another early start; we were up at 7.00am as usual, and dressed, breakfasted and were ready to go by 7.50 for our Zodiac ride across to Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, San Cristobal Island.  San Cristobal is one of the few inhabited islands in the Galápagos, so we looked forward to visiting this small town, as well as our walk.  I had with me a stout walking staff, as we’d been advised that the walk would be quite steep over varied terrain.

Our Zodiac pulled up at the small landing stage and we all disembarked, one by one, handing our lifejackets to one of the Celebrity staff, who placed them in a large waterproof bag to take back to the ship for the next 16 passengers who would be going ashore.  😊

The port looked very picturesque and exuded a rustic, laid-back charm.  We could see many small boats bobbing gently up and down, and well as lots of sea-lions; some of them on the beach, some underneath the boardwalk, or on the steps, over even on some of the boats!  As well as the sounds of the sea lapping against the boats and the shore, we could hear a chorus of “ohuh, ohuh, ohuh” coming from the sea-lions, a sound which some of the guides imitated.  😊

We strolled along the wooden walkways until they gave way to rocky, uneven ground and once again we had to watch our step as we climbed higher.  Every now and again the guide would stop, to allow us to take in the wonderful views with our eyes as well as our cameras.  At one point the sun came out and I was glad I was wearing a sun hat as well as Factor 20 sun protection.

Eventually we came to a series of zigzagging wooden steps which had a rickety handrail, and I puffed my way up each set, pausing to look at the view, and the Xpedition at anchor far below us, as well as one or two other pleasure cruisers and small fishing boats.  Breathing in the fresh salty air and feeling the sun warm on my back, Durham and home and work seemed part of another world.

After reaching the highest part of the walk, we took some time out before commencing the climb back down.  We took a different route down, which thankfully meant we didn’t have to pick our way over the rocks.

We then made our way to the Interpretation Centre, which is a joint effort between the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill (UNC) and their partner, the Universidad San Francisco de Quito (USFQ) in Ecuador.  The two universities constructed this facility to advance their shared goal of promoting science and education that will help protect these fragile island ecosystems and enhance the lives of their inhabitants.

Inside, we read all about the islands, including quotes from the people who lived in the Galápagos and were obviously very proud to do so.  There was a heartfelt sign on the wall which contained the quote “Until recently, the future of humans depending on the islands.  Today, the future of the islands depends on humans”.

After our visit to the Interpretation Centre we were advised we had about an hour and a half free time, to do our own thing.  We therefore took a slow walk through the charming little streets, all the time hearing the “ohuh, ohuh, ohuh, ohuh” of the sea-lions which were all along the beach as well as some which had even made their way into town, and were lying in the shades of trees or buildings.  We had some postcards of the Galápagos which had been in the goody bag we received for winning the quiz the other night, so we first of all had to find a shop selling stamps.  After asking around, we eventually found a little souvenir shop that sold stamps among lots of other things; t-shirts, hats, keyrings, ornaments and all the usual holiday stuff.  We bought the stamps which were large and colourful and featured aspects of Galápagos life and wildlife; we needed four for each card so there wouldn’t be much room to write anything!

As we sat on a nearby bench writing them out, several people from the ship passed by and asked us where we’d bought the stamps, so we directed them to the little shop which conveniently had a postbox on the wall outside.  We should have been on commission, because we must have told about 10 people where the shop was!

Once the cards were written and posted, we continued on our way and came across a shop selling shoes.  My wedge flipflops, which I’ve had years and which have seen me through many a holiday, are much the worse for wear now, so I thought I’d take the opportunity to get some new ones.  The lady in the shop was very helpful, and I came out with a very comfortable pair of red faux-leather thong sandals with a padded insole.

After wandering around a bit more, we started make our way back to the Zodiac landing stage, passing a large area of fenced-off beach on the way.  The non-stop barking of the sea-lions mixed with the sounds of the waves and the cries of the seabirds.  There were a great many sea-lions on the beach and frolicking in the water; we saw a large female with her tiny little pup; he must have only been a few days old and made little high-pitched wails in between latching onto his mother for a feed.  It was such a gorgeous sight, seeing all these creatures living together in perfect harmony; man could learn a lot from them.

We spent quite a while there, as we couldn’t take our eyes of the sea-lions and their antics.  Time was getting on, however, so we reluctantly made our way back to queue for the Zodiac.  As each inflatable only carries 16 passengers the queues were never very long. Collecting our life-jackets once again, we descended the steps and were delighted at the sight of a large sea-lion stretched out on a bench, completely oblivious to the groups of nearby chattering people.  😊

The Zodiac bounced and sped its way over the waves, every now and again sending up a refreshing spray of sea.  In five minutes we were back on board the Xpedition for about 11.00am, just in time for a nice cold beer. What a fabulous morning it had been!  😊

At around midday the Xpedition set sail once again.  We enjoyed a light lunch then spent the early afternoon pottering around the ship and taking a revitalising long nap, as we were quite tired out after all our activity this morning.  As we were lying there, we could distinctly feel the ship’s motion, and it felt as though there were some fairly large waves out there.

We went up on deck around 2.00pm; the Xpedition was dancing a merry jig on the waves, pitching and tossing and sending up lots of sea-spray.  It was therefore not surprising when Monica, the cruise director, announced that due to safety issues any excursions this afternoon, which would obviously entail going ashore in the Zodiacs, would unfortunately have to be cancelled.  This was disappointing as we planned once again to go on a long steep hike over varied terrain, looking at the wildlife and just enjoying the rugged landscape.  Safety always has to come first, however, so we’d just have to spend the remainder of today on board the ship.

Instead, the staff put on a showing of a film called “The Rock about the Galápagos during the second World War.  It passed an interesting interlude, during which time we made the most of the gratis cocktails.  😉

Afterwards it was back to cabin 416 where I got showered and washed my hair, as tonight we had received an invitation to the Captain’s Cocktail Party at 7.00pm.  So I took my leisurely time getting ready, then we sat in the Discovery Lounge for a short while before meeting at the Guest Relations Desk to be escorted to the venue.  Looking at the number of people who attended (and bearing in mind there was no announcement of the cocktail party in the daily programme) it appeared that not everyone had received an invitation, so it looked as if Trevor and I were one of the chosen few.  😊

We were shown to Deck 5, which had been sheltered somewhat from the still windy and rough weather by a large awning.  At the doorway Captain Fausto Pacheco greeted us and we were handed a glass of ‘champagne’ and some tasty king prawn canapés.

We enjoyed the chatter and banter with our fellow passengers, including Jeff, to whom we bowed as tonight was the night he was due to join the officers’ table.  There was no sign of Jan, and Jeff said she was lying down with a migraine; we said we hoped she would be better in time to join her ‘special’ dinner.

Back down in the Discovery Lounge we listened to the briefing for tomorrow’s activities before making our way to the Darwin Restaurant for dinner.  We were joined by Tom and Lee-Anne as well as Brian and Karen.  Once again, the meal was spent in interesting and convivial company.  We noticed that Jan had been unable to put in an appearance at the officers’ table.

It was after 9.00pm when we repaired to the Discovery Lounge, and we were surprised not to find many people there.  Perhaps they were sea-sick after today’s bouncing around, or maybe they didn’t like karaoke, which was planned as tonight’s entertainment.  There were about 10 people in there, however, and at least as many staff, so still enough to make a party out of it.  😊

I got up and did a few numbers, so did Tom and a lot of the staff.  It was quite different to see some karaoke songs in Spanish.  When the English language songs were on, the staff joined in lustily, and even the passengers who didn’t get up and sing on their own.  So the evening wasn’t a dead loss; we kept it going until midnight, with maybe five passengers getting up and at least that many staff.  It was all good fun, and we remained at the bar afterwards to enjoy a nightcap.

Once again we’d had an excellent day; it was only a pity we couldn’t make our afternoon’s excursion, but that’s the way it goes sometimes.  We were good and tired and went to sleep almost immediately, despite the still very noticeable ship’s motion.


We were up this morning at 7.00am once again, feeling refreshed after a good night’s sleep.  We looked forward, with eager anticipation, to what today would bring.  😊

At 7.45 we gathered at the after decks, replete with water shoes, sturdy trainers and socks, sunhats, snorkelling gear and lightweight clothing worn over our swimsuits.  Then we disembarked, 16 at a time, into the waiting inflatables.

Off we roared onto the glittering blue Pacific, with here and there small cresting wavelets, our Zodiac churning up white sea foam with its propeller as we skimmed and bounced over the sea’s surface.  After a few minutes our driver beached the vessel and we clambered ashore, splashing through the last couple of yards of sea before reaching the gorgeous white sandy beach.  A few length of wood were laid on the sand and we were advised that we were not to cross the wooden markers as sea turtles were nesting on the beach beyond.

We changed from our water shoes into our trainers and left our snorkel bags on the beach for later on; it was quite safe to leave them because, after all, who was going to come along and steal them in this uninhabited, unspoilt place?  😊

We followed our guide Cristina along the shoreline, looking at the perfect scenery; the gently-rolling Pacific, the sun peeping out from the fluffy white clouds, the sea-washed black rocks with their crabs and sea-birds, and the scrubby bushes and cactus plants further inland.  We could smell the salt air and hear the crashing of the surf against the shore and the rock projections, as well as the cries of the seabirds.  I could go on about it all day, and still come nowhere near to describing it.  😊

After about three-quarters of a mile, we turned back and make our leisurely way back to where the Zodiacs had dropped us off.  Returning to the rock upon which we’d left our snorkelling gear, we changed into our wetsuits and masks, leaving it until the last minute to don our fins.  Then we paddled our way out until it was deep enough to swim, and made our way to the nearby rocky outcrops, where we knew there would be lots of fish and other sea creatures.

Once again the diversity of the marine life and the colours, shapes and sizes of the tropical fish amazed us.  The water was colder than you’d expect for the latitude, so we understood why we needed wetsuits.  It was pleasant when you put your face, in its mask, into the water and looked around at this beautiful underwater lifescape; you could feel as if you were the only person in the world.

After about 20 minutes or so, I felt a little cold (and quite tired after walking and swimming), so we swam back into our depth again, and offered instructions and help to some people who hadn’t snorkelled before.  Then we just passed the next hour or so on the beach, looking around and talking with other swimmers and snorkelers until it was time to go back to the Zodiac for the return ride to the Xpedition, gleaming whitely in the near distance.

Back on board we hosed the sand off ourselves, rinsed out our wetsuits and returned to cabin 416 for a long hot shower and change into clean, dry clothes.  Then we went and sat out on deck for a cold beer each after a full, interesting morning. 😊

At lunchtime the Xpedition weighed anchor and we set off for North Seymour Island.  We enjoyed a burger each and passed the time with our fellow passengers before returning to our cabin for an hour’s power nap, as we were quite tired out with the all the sunshine, walking and swimming, and we wanted to rest before the afternoon’s activity.

At 4.30pm we disembarked the ship into the dinghy once again, and set off across the sea to the short distance to the rocky shore.  This time it was a dry landing onto some flat rocks, before we handed in our life-jackets and set off over the very rocky, boulder and stone-strewn terrain, which was quite steep in some parts.  Much as I wanted to look around me and look ahead, it really was essential to watch your step as it would be all too easy to twist your ankle or trip over.  I’d borrowed a stout walking staff to assist me over the uneven surface, as well as to help going uphill.

Eventually the terrain evened out into more of a sandy pathway, and we were able to appreciate our surroundings.  We saw lots of frigate birds flying overhead, their distinctive red balloon chests on show.  Some of them landed nearby and went into a sort of little mating ritual, calling loudly and flapping their wings to attract any nearby females.  😊

We also saw lots of basking sea-lions, some lying in the shade of the low, scrubby bushes and one suckling her pup, who looked almost as big as his mother.  We had to be careful where were were stepping in case we trod on any lava lizards or land iguanas, of which we saw many; one of them was perched on the top of a tall cactus; they are obviously good climbers.

We were lucky enough to see nesting frigate birds, and some families with their fluffy white-plumaged youngsters.  We also saw some blue-footed boobies sitting on their nests; they dig out a shallow pit in the sandy-soil and lay their eggs there.  We had to be very careful not to make too much noise or to get too close, remembering the “eight feet” rule which was the closest we were allowed to get (unless the animal or bird approached us).

The walk lasted for about one hour 45 minutes, then it was time to return to the Xpedition.  Ours was the last Zodiac back and some drama ensued when its engine cut out half-way back to the ship.  It appeared that we’d run of petrol!  After a couple of futile attempts the driver had at restarting the engine, he switched to a reserve fuel tank and we thankfully made it the last few hundred yards back to the ship, but not without further excitement when a passenger’s hat blew off and the driver had to retrieve it.  Finally, even our arrival back at the landing-stage was not without note; we arrived a little quickly and bounced quite firmly off the rear of the Xpedition.  Soon we were all safely back on board, however, and we were met with the tantalising smell of a barbecue coming from the Beagle Grill on deck 4.

Quickly getting washed and changed in our cabin, we returned to the rear decks and collected our meal of fresh fish, steak, chicken, langoustine, lobster and crisp salad before going up to Deck 5 and sitting looking out over the ocean at the westering sun above the horizon.

Here we were, dining on freshly grilled lobster washed down with chilled wine as the sun went down in a blaze of reds, pinks and golds over the Pacific Ocean.  Could life get any more perfect than this?  😊

We enjoyed the company of Mike and Susan, another couple from the USA, as we feasted on our delicious meal.  Once the sun was gone, however, a brisk sea breeze blew up so I had to return to our cabin to put on a sweatshirt.

After dinner we adjourned to the Discovery Lounge once again, where our naturalist guides treated us to some local singing and dancing, and everyone ended this fantastic day on a high once again.  Afterwards we sat with Jeff and Jan at the bar, where they informed us they too had been invited to dine at an officer’s table; the ship’s Doctor had requested the pleasure of their company at dinner tomorrow night, so we got our own back by mock-bowing to them.  😊

Then it was back along to our cabin at around 11.30pm, where we fell asleep more or less instantly, lulled by the gentle movement of the Xpedition on the ocean waves.

Woke up at 7.00 this morning, but a huge wave of tiredness came over me and I just couldn’t keep my eyes open.  I don’t know whether it’s the early morning, late nights, exercise, fresh air, free cocktails or a combination of all of them, but I was just completely drained.  Therefore I missed the interesting 1.5 mile hike over the lava field; Trevor went without me.

On his return at around 11 o’clock we went and had a cup of coffee and croissant and sat out on the rear decks.  I still felt a bit like one o’clock half-struck and hoped I would feel better for the deep-water snorkelling this afternoon.

We just spent the morning and early afternoon pottering around the ship, sitting out on deck and passing the time with our fellow passengers.

At 2.30pm I still had absolutely no energy, so I reluctantly decided to miss the snorkelling; Trevor buddied up with Jeff and off they went.  I saw Jan out on deck and she said she too was very tired, so maybe all the activity and excitement was catching up with us.  ☹

Once the snorkelers returned, we had about 45 minutes before setting off on a scenic Zodiac ride along the coast.  As ever, we revelled in the feel of the wind and sea-spray on our faces as we journeyed alongside the beautiful rugged coastline, listening to the cries of the birds.  We saw lots of pelicans, boobies, frigatebirds and sea turtles and it was a pleasant and invigorating ride.

Back on board the Xpedtion at about six o’clock, we enjoyed a cold beer each and some pre-dinner canapés, accompanied by the Latin beat of some lively background music.  Then we returned to cabin 416 to get washed and changed and ready for the evening’s briefing on tomorrow’s activities.  By now any lethargy had left me and I was bright-eyed and bushy-tailed once more.  😊

The briefing included a small wine and cheese party; I partook of a selection of local cheeses, some grapes and walnuts, and a glass of crisp rosé wine.  This then took us nicely to dinner time, where Jeff had reserved a table for six of us, so Neil and Gail could join us as well.

Dinner was a lively affair with much good food, good wine, interesting conversation and laughter.  We were amused at some of the differences in the American and British languages; the way the same word has completely different meanings in each nation.  The great playwright George Bernard Shaw probably described it best when he said that America and Britain are “two nations divided by a common language.” 😊

After dinner the six of us adjourned to the Discovery Lounge to take part in tonight’s Trivia Quiz, wherein all the questions were about the Galápagos.  We scored 18/24 but one team called “Felix”, whose paper we had marked, scored 23/24 so we thought they were the winners, until it transpired that “Felix” was one of the bar staff!  He was immediately disqualified therefore, and they declared our team, who was called “Norfolk ‘n’ Chance” (!) the winners.  Yay!  😊  We received a goody bag which contained baseball caps, Ecuadorian chocolate and postcards, which we divided up between us.

We remained in the Discovery Lounge until, one by one, it emptied out and we were the only ones left.  We made it to bed by 11.00pm (which is early for us) but I was determined I wasn’t going to miss any of the activities tomorrow.  😊

Isabela Island

Everybody was dancin’ with the Captain
Everybody was dancin’ with the Captain
And we all had fun all night long
And the ship sailed on.
Dancing with the Captain –
Paul Nicholas

We had a lie-in this morning until 8.00am, as we were not due to participate in any activities until 10 o’clock, when we were going on a scenic tour of the inlet by Zodiac.  The day was pleasantly warm but not too hot, and there was a gentle breeze.  The Xpedition was anchored at Elizabeth Bay, one of the most westerly points in the Galápagos.

We enjoyed a light breakfast in the Darwin Restaurant, where we shared a table with Neil and Gail once again; we found out that they were doing the same Zodiac trip as us.  Then, at 9.45am, we assembled at the rear decks ready to embark the Zodiac.  We didn’t need our water shoes this time as we weren’t disembarking the dinghy.

The Zodiac sped across the bay, and we slowed down when we got close to an outcrop of rocks, where we saw many more of the red Sally Lightfoot crabs, pelicans, blue-footed boobies and a couple of Galápagos penguins.  People tend to associate penguins with Antarctica, but the Galápagos penguins are found on the Equator and are the most northerly penguins you’ll find (in the wild).

We also delighted in watching the antics of a couple of sea-lions, frisking nearby.  Really, this is the most amazing and unique place and I still couldn’t quite believe we were here, at the most precious archipelago in the world.

Our Zodiac slowly drifted along into thicker vegetation as we started to explore the rich mangrove ecosystem.  The driver switched off the engine and we all enjoyed the silence, listening to the sounds of the sea and the cries of the birds.  Our guide was able to imitate bird and seal sounds, and several times they would answer him and he’d tell us which type of bird we could hear.

As well as looking up in the trees and rocks, we had also to be sure to look down at the water below us, as there were several green sea-turtles around, as well as more penguins.  We also saw some eagle rays, slowly flapping their large fins as their long, slender tails stretched out behind them.

As we got deeper into the mangrove, everyone fell silent and just enjoyed the sounds of nature.  All of a sudden there was a loud “raaaahhhh” bark and everyone jumped out of their skin!  It was a large male sea-lion who was somehow perched on a branch in one of the mangrove trees.  Neil made everyone laugh by saying he’d discovered a new species, a “tree-lion”.  He was so well hidden it was quite a shock for this noise to shatter the silence, but exciting as well; the variety of wildlife just had to be seen to be believed.

What a lovely ride we had; it lasted about an hour and a half and we returned to the Xpedition for around 11.45am and sat outside enjoyed some freezing cold beer and some light canapés, talking with Jeff and Jan.  Just then, we noticed a slight commotion on the port side of the ship and were delighted to see the tell-tale spouts of whales, as well as the tantalising black fins.  One of them came right out of the water and we identified orcas, or killer whales.  Wow!

At noon the Beagle Grill opened up and we enjoyed a plate of paella, which contained squid, chicken, ham, shrimp and large langoustine.  It was totally delicious.  Once we were all back on board the Xpedition winched all the Zodiac craft aboard, weighed anchor ad we set off for Tagus Cove, another part of Isabela Island.

At 1.45pm there was a showing of the BBC documentary called Galapagos in the Darwin Lounge, and Trevor watched it while I did some of this blog.  Then we took another walk around the ship, going to the topmost deck (deck 6) to see if the whales were still around.  Indeed they were; we kept seeing the spouts and fins but we waited in vain for one of them to body-breach; that is when they jump right out of the water, and they do it to dislodge any barnacles or parasites that attach to them.

We just pottered around the ship until around four o’clock, then returned to our cabin to change into light clothing, socks and stout trainers for our next activity which would be a walk to the top of the volcanic cone.  Historically Tagus Cove provided shelter for wayfarers and was one of the areas visited by Charles Darwin in 1835.

In our cabin an invitation to dine with Marcelo Tufiño, the Chief Engineer, awaited us; we were to present our invitation in the restaurant at 7.30pm to be escorted to his table.  Wow!  😊

We disembarked the Xpedition into the Zodiac once again for the short ride to shore; this time it was a dry landing, which meant you climbed out of the dinghy straight onto some rocks and so kept your feet dry. We handed our life-jacket to one of the waiting guides and set off, complete with sun-hats, water bottles and, of course, cameras.  There was a brisk breeze blowing which afforded a welcome respite from the equatorial sun.  I made sure to liberally coat myself with factor 20 sun lotion.

We climbed higher and higher up the mountain, up a series of approximately 150 wooden steps; it was quite hard going and I was breathing hard.  Looking back at the views, however, it was totally worth the effort; looking at the Xpedition at anchor far below us, her white paintwork gleaming mellowly in the sun, and the blue Pacific ocean lazily going about its business; it was breathtaking.

After a while, we stopped and stared in wonder at a mountain lake which was (predictably) named Darwin’s Lake.  It was calm and green, and just so picture-perfect.  I wish I had more words to describe the Galápagos; I feel whatever I write or describe just doesn’t do it justice.  It really is the most beautiful, amazing and unique location, and I am glad that most of the islands are uninhabited, because it is far too good for us mere humans.

We continued on our way to the top, watching our footing on the sandy and rocky trail.  Once we got up there, our guide got us altogether for a group photo.  The wind was really strong at the top and you had to be careful not to let dust blow in your eyes.  After a brief rest, we all started to make our way down again, back the way we came, and we arrived back at the Zodiacs around 6.00pm, for the short ride back to the Xpedition.

Once again, on boarding the vessel we were met with the customary cold damp towel, and personally greeted on board by the captain.  Cold beers and bottles of prosecco on ice were available, and we enjoyed a couple of the gratis drinks as well as the company of our fellow passengers, including Jeff and Jan.  We told them about our invitation to dinner and they kept mock-bowing to us.  😉

Much as we were enjoying the conversation, the laughter and the banter, I had to make my excuses at half-six and return to the cabin to get showered, do my hair and get smartened up for dinner.  Then we gathered in the Discovery Lounge to be briefed on tomorrow’s activities and enjoyed a Blue-Footed Booby cocktail before dinner.  There seems to be an awful lot of drinking going on on this voyage.  😊

At 7.30pm we made our way down to the restaurant and were taken to the Chief Engineer’s table.  We were joined by another two couples, both from the USA, as well as Jacqueline Calle, from the Guest Relations Office.  It was a delicious meal in excellent company; Marcelo Tufiño did not speak much English as he explained that had only been promoted to Chief Engineer a couple of months ago and previously worked in the engine room where he didn’t mix with the passengers; it gave me a chance to practise my limited Spanish, and there was also another lady on our table who had previously lived in Mexico, and her Spanish was fluent.  So the Chief Engineer didn’t feel too left out on his own table. 😊

The fine food, wine and Amaretto flowed as the time winged by.  At 9.30pm we adjourned to the already-packed Discovery Lounge as they were holding a “Line Crossing” ceremony, as we had crossed the Equator today (one of several times, in fact).  Trevor and I are already some of King Neptune’s “Trusty Shellbacks” as we’ve previously crossed the Equator on board ship; the first time on the Braemar in 2011 and the second on the Arcadia in 2013.  Sailors who have never crossed the Equator are known as “pollywogs” and are treated with a certain amount of disdain by us Shellbacks.  😊

Everyone was in a party mood as we all got up and danced; even the Captain let his hair down and joined in.  The infectious Latin samba beat dominated the scene and we were all just so much on a high.  On a ship this small (96 passengers) everyone got to know everyone else and new friends were made daily.  We knew this holiday was going to be a one-off, but it has just surpassed my expectations in so many ways.  Absolutely wonderful.

We carried on partying into the wee hours of the morning, while the Xpedition sailed on placidly into the night.  It was well after midnight when we got to bed, where I was out like a light after a very full, very interesting day.

What a truly wonderful day it turned out to be today!  We got up at 7.00am and enjoyed a good breakfast in the Darwin Restaurant, before making our way to the stern of the ship to collect our lifejackets for the Zodiac ride ashore.  We also wore water-shoes as it was a “wet landing”, and carried our snorkelling gear, wetsuits and some trainers and socks.  We were just so excited and mildly euphoric with the anticipation of what we would see and experience.

Our Zodiac ride took us to Puerto Egas, Santiago Island.  This island is also known as James, or San Salvador.  We would spend the next couple of hours exploring this unique territory on foot, looking for birds and other wildlife.

When the Zodiac reached the shoreline, we all took turns in sitting on the side and swinging our legs over, splashing the last few yards through the water onto the black volcanic sand.  Immediately in front of us were a couple of Galapágos sea-lions, relaxing on the sand.  One of the rules of visitors to the islands is that you are not allowed to get closer than 8’ to any wildlife; the sea-lions did not seem disturbed by us at all though.

We then dried our feet off and changed into dry socks and trainers ready for our walk.  The terrain alternated between sand or fairly flat rocks, some of which formed natural steps.  We set off at a gentle pace, accompanied by Marvie, our guide and naturalist for the morning.  He pointed out the different birds and plants to us; we saw yellow warblers, mockingbirds, lava herons and pelicans.  Several times small lizards darted across the rocks in front of us; you can to keep your eyes peeled as they were so well camouflaged, blending perfectly into their surroundings.

As we walked along, my eyes were wide at Mother Nature’s rugged beauty, and the sounds of the waves and the cries of the birds.  Several rock formations jutted out of the sea and the waves crashed against them; we could see blue-footed boobies, more pelicans and lots of red crabs atop them.

Because of the constant movement of the restless ocean, several blue-water grottoes and been formed, and we could hear the sea washing around hollowly below us.  We saw several black marine iguanas, some of them basking on the rocks and some swimming in the various rock pools.

We also saw some more Galapágos sea-lions; some of them came right up to us curiously.  One of them shuffled along and launched itself into a grotto with a tremendous splash.  We stood at the edge and looked down at him swimming away, before he dived down in search of fish.  😊

We saw quite a lot of sea-lions; some half-grown pups were playing and frisking in a rock pool, making little grunting and barking sounds.  We also saw a female lying on her side, suckling her little pup; it was just so cute.  This is the only way to see wildlife; forget about zoos, seeing animals in their natural habitat and marvelling at the miracle of life is unbeatable, and I felt so privileged to be here, breathing in the fresh sea air, and feeling the breeze in my hair.

Further along the shore we saw a large group of fur seals basking on the rocks, grunting, snuffling and barking.  I couldn’t get enough of these animals; I took absolutely loads of photos and video footage.

On the way back, we saw a massive alpha-male sea-lion, a real “beach master”.  He was driving another, smaller seal away, barking loudly and shuffling along.  We later learned that these beach masters can weigh up to 500 pounds, and this one was a real whopper.  The smaller seal prudently retreated, and plopped into the ocean out of sight.

After about a couple of hours, we returned to the beach where the Zodiac had landed and we changed into our wetsuits ready for snorkelling.  I waited until I was at the shoreline before putting on the fins, as it is impossible to walk in them.  Then we donned our masks and tubes and took to the water.

Wow! It was totally amazing.  We swam out to some nearby rocks, and passed many shoals of colourful fish, some of which I later identified as king angelfish, Mexican hogfish, Panamic sergeant major and bicolour parrotfish.  We also saw many crabs and starfish, and Trevor spotted a shark.

Swimming along gently with my face in the water, looking at this wonderful array of marine life was tremendous.  Every now and again we had to look up to make sure we didn’t inadvertently swim out too far, and we had to stay with our group.  A couple of the Zodiacs were anchored nearby in case anyone got into difficulty, but there were no problems.

We spent at least half an hour in the water before swimming for shore once again, and getting out of our fins and masks; we had to keep our wet suits on until we were back on board the Xpedition.

Collecting our clothes and shoes, and changing into our water-shoes once again, we waited on the beach for the return of the Zodiac.  It was only a five-minute ride back to the ship, and we had to return our lifejackets and change out of our wetsuits; these were rinsed in a tub of clean water before being hung on coat hangers with our stateroom number on them.  We then had to hose ourselves down to get rid of all the black sand (it seemed to have gotten in every nook and cranny imaginable!)  Then it was back to our cabin for a long, hot shower and clean clothes.  What an absolutely fantastic morning it had been!  😊

We enjoyed a light lunch in the Darwin Restaurant before sitting out on the rears decks, enjoying a cold drink and socialising with our fellow passengers.  Everyone was excitedly regaling everyone else with tales what they’d seen and done and it was a happy, party atmosphere.  Then I went along to the tiny ship’s boutique and bought a t-shirt featuring a blue-footed boobie and the words Celebrity Xpedition on the front.  After all, a holiday wouldn’t be a holiday without buying the t-shirt.  😉

At around 3.30pm we assembled on the rear deck once again, and descended the steps into the Zodiac for a scenic boat ride along the shore.  The dinghy sped and bounced over the waves as we tasted the salt seaspray on our lips – it was exhilarating.  When the reached some of the rocky outcrops our driver slowed the boat right down, and was able to get right up close to allow us to see whatever there was to see.

We identified more pelicans, lava herons, blue-footed boobies, lots of red crabs and several more sea-lions, some of them basking on the rocks and some swimming in the ocean.  We also saw some sea turtles and kept our eyes peeled for whales or dolphins, as we had spotted the tell-tale spouts earlier on.

The ride lasted about an hour and a half and we returned to the Xpedition about five-thirty.  We were welcomed back on board by Captain Fausto Pacheco personally, and each given a glass of well-chilled prosecco and some canapés.  Honestly, this trip has completely surpassed all my expectations already, and it’s only our second day!  😊

We spent a very pleasant hour sitting and relaxing outside and talking with Alvaro, the Hotel Director, about different places we’d been to and different cruises we’d done, while enjoying some more glasses of the free fizz.  Then we reluctantly had to return to our cabin to get washed and changed for dinner.  When we got back there, we found a dish of strawberries dipped in chocolate, as well as a bottle of prosecco on ice.  What a nice touch; we’d enjoy it later on.  😊

We then returned to the Discovery Lounge where they were having a pisco sour cocktail party and we sat with Jeff and Jan and listened to the briefing for tomorrow’s activities, and signed up for the ones we wanted to participate in.

Dinner was spent in the interesting company of two American couples; Tom and Lee-Anne, and Neil and Gail.  I enjoyed a delicious filet mignon and fresh vegetables, washed down with a crisp sauvignon blanc (I know, I know – you’re ‘supposed’ to have red wine with steak but I enjoy my whites!). We then finished off with a glass of amaretto and made our way back to the Discovery Lounge to participate in the “Latin Night” music and dancing.

The music featured the infectious samba and salsa beat, while members of the Ecuadorian staff got up to show us how it was done.  One lady taught me some salsa steps, and I enjoyed the music and the dancing; I just love that sort of music as well as Caribbean soca; the type of music where you just can’t keep your feet (or your hips) still for a second.  It was a great evening.  😊

The lounge seemed to empty out fairly early (before 11.00pm), so Trevor and I finished the evening off with a nightcap at the bar, where we spent some time talking with the barman.  Then it was off to bed, on a high, after a truly great day.

Glorious Galápagos

Carry me on the waves
To the lands I’ve never been
Carry me on the waves
To the lands I’ve never seen.
Orinoco Flow
– Enya


We got up at 06.45 this morning, filled with a suppressed excitement in anticipation of the day to come.  After a good breakfast once again, we assembled in the hotel foyer at 8.00am and collected our aircraft boarding passes for Avianca flight AV1686 from Quito to Seymour Airport, Baltra in the famed Galápagos Islands.  We were also given a robust, refillable plastic water bottle each; this is to save on all the eco-unfriendly water bottles in our effort to help the environment.  😊

Once the coaches arrived, we all piled on and made our way through the light Sunday morning traffic to the airport; it took about 45 minutes.  As were already checked in as a group, it was just a matter of getting to Gate D4 for our flight at 10.00am.  We could see our aircraft, an Airbus A19, waiting on the tarmac for us, and it wasn’t long before we were walking up the steps and boarding our charter flight.  Shortly afterwards the doors were closed and we taxied to the runway and took to the blue skies.  We were on our way!  😊

The flight only lasted one hour and 50 minutes, during which time the cabin crew came round with more breakfast; this time I declined, as I’d already eaten a good breakfast in the hotel.  I just made do with a Diet Coke and spent the flight doing some of this blog and looking out of the plane window, waiting for our first glimpse of the Galápagos.  As we approached the airport, we spotted the Xpedition at anchor and felt a fresh surge of excitement.

Soon we touched down at Seymour Airport, along the single runway which bisected land that looked arid, rocky and volcanic and was filled with scrubby-looking bushes but no actual trees.  Beyond, the blue Pacific Ocean glittered in the sunlight.  We slowed to a halt and happily went down the steps of the aircraft into the sunshine and cloudless sky; a brisk but refreshing breeze was blowing as we entered the airport terminal.  Inside, we were given a complimentary cold drink; I think mine was passion fruit juice.  There was also tea or coffee if you wanted it, as well as (more!) snacks.

We sat and made small talk with our fellow travellers, including Mike and Mary, with whom we shared our meal last night.  Then it was time for us to board the shuttle bus for the short journey to the landing stage.

On arrival, we were all given life jackets to put on before awaiting the 16-seater Zodiac landing craft.  We were shown the correct and safe way to board the inflatables, then we had to sit on the edge and hold on to the ropes as the small craft sped and bounced over the waves towards the Xpedition.  As we disembarked the Zodiac, we had to hand our carry-on bags to one of the crew so we had both hands free to hold the hands of the crew members helping us onto the ship.  We were then directed to the Discovery Lounge for our welcome briefing, and each given a cold, refreshing glass of Buck’s Fizz.  Sitting down at a table, I held up my glass and said to anyone who was listening “Well, here we are!  Cheers everybody!”.  Everyone said “cheers” and we all clinked glasses.  😊

Once everyone was finished their drinks, we were taken to our cabin, which was only along the corridor from the Discovery Lounge.  Trevor and I have been allocated cabin 416 on deck 4; in fact, there are only six decks on this ship altogether.  It’s the smallest ship we’ve been on at only 2,800 tons and 96 passengers.  No ships with more than 100 passengers are allowed in the Galápagos, so this is actually one of the biggest ships that comes here.

Our ocean-view cabin looked homely and comfortable.  There was a double bed, bedside table, small settee and table, a large dressing table with stool and flat-screen TV, and a couple of wardrobes with shelves and hanging space.  The bathroom wasn’t a bad size, as well as the sink and WC there was a fair-sized shower stall with a glass door.  Bottles of shower gel, shampoo and conditioner were attached to the wall.  We felt sure we would have a very comfortable stay on board the Xpedition.

After getting settled in our cabin, our suitcases had not yet arrived, so we decided to go and sit up on deck and enjoy a cold beer each.  The cruise is all-inclusive, so there is no additional cost for the drinks.  😉

We sat on the rear decks at a parasol-covered table and happily looked around us.  We could see several other smaller islands; some of them just looked like big rocks jutting out of the sea; they were uninhabited so were a veritable haven for wildlife.

We enjoyed a couple of beers along with the company of Jeff and Jan, a couple from Manchester who had arrived on the same KLM flight as us.  Most of the passengers were predictably from the USA and Canada; very few of us are British.  There are also some from New Zealand and some from Australia; they would have had an even longer journey and bigger time difference than us.  We always enjoy meeting and socialising with people from other countries, hearing their stories and learning about their home towns.  Variety is what it is all about!

At three o’clock we returned to the Discovery Lounge to meet our naturalists and guides who would be looking after us for this trip, and get an introduction to the Galápagos, the “dos and don’ts” of how to behave and how to preserve the delicate ecology and balance of nature here.  We were also told about the various activities and excursions available for us to enjoy, to make our memorable trip even more unforgettable.

This took us nicely up to lifeboat drill, where we all had to go to the boat deck in response to the emergency signal (seven short blasts of the ship’s whistle, followed by one long blast).  Afterwards our time was our own, and we used it to enjoy another couple of free drinks; this time my favourite cocktail of caipirinha.  The barman just sloshed the cachaça into the glass without using a measure; boy, was it a strong one!  😉

At 4.30pm we had to go to the topmost deck to get fitted for our wetsuits and fins, as we planned to do some snorkelling while we were here.  I had never worn a wetsuit before, and getting in and out of it was quite a feat!  The wetsuit was the kind with only short arms and legs, rather than the full-length one.  We then had to try on a pair of fins as well as collect masks and tubes, and a big mesh backpack to carry them all in.

At 5.00pm the Xpedition weighed anchor and we set off through the calm Pacific towards one of the islands we could see.  Several large frigate birds swooped and wheeled in the sky above us, following the ship.  We circumnavigated an island called Daphne Major, getting up quite close so we could see the birds and, in some cases, sea lions.  From the air, the large conical top of the island is visible, remind us that all of these islands are volcanic.

It was exhilarating sailing along, and quite a party atmosphere on the rear decks of the Xpedition as the camera-happy passengers made the most of the lovely scenery and waiters wandered among us with their trays of cocktails and other cold drinks.  Dinner was not until 7.30pm so we took some time out for a half-hour power nap, as we were still not over our jetlag and we’d had an exciting day today so far with an early start.

Even though there is no dress code on board Celebrity cruise ships, I made the effort to dress a little more smartly for dinner, with a colourful cotton dress and some silver sandals, and some fresh makeup.  Then off we went to the Darwin Restaurant on Deck 3, where we enjoyed a delicious meal, washed down with (more!) free wine and spent in excellent company, with Brian and Karen, a couple from America.

We finished the evening off by going along to the Discovery Lounge to watch a documentary about Charles Darwin, and how he came to form his famous Theory of Evolution and natural selection, the “survival of the fittest”.  It was an interesting documentary, but I didn’t really do Mr. Darwin justice as I kept dozing off; tiredness (as well as the beer, wine and caipirinha) was catching up with me.

We therefore decided to return to cabin 416 and settle down to sleep, on our first eventful day on board the Xpedition.  We looked forward to what tomorrow would bring. 😊

Middle of the World

Because we were still on British time, we awoke several times in the night, and at 6.00am (which felt like midday) we decided to get up.  Outside, day was breaking and the weather felt cool and refreshing.  The wet ground indicated we’d had some rain overnight.

I took an invigorating shower while Trevor got to grips with the coffee-maker, and at seven o’clock we made our way down to breakfast in the large, airy dining room.

There was a huge selection of breakfast foods available, some of them quite unusual compared to what we’re accustomed to at home.  For example, there was hot potato soup as well as chicken and rice.  In addition, there was a huge array of colourful fresh fruits, pastries, meats, cheeses, egg dishes and cereals.  I opted for a selection of cheeses, meats and fresh fruits, whereas Trevor partook of a plate of Eggs Benedict.  It was all washed down with strong, freshly brewed coffee to set us up for the exciting day ahead.  😊

We were finished with breakfast at 7.30am and, as we didn’t have to assemble in the hotel lobby until 9.15am, we decided to take a walk outside and explore our immediate vicinity.  We went outside to the hotel pool, but it had started to rain again so we decided to go back to room 712 and get our raincoats.

Outside, we walked along the streets, passing the ubiquitous Burger King and McDonalds on the way. Most of the buildings around us seemed to be more hotels, office blocks, motorcycle and auto shops and residential buildings.  There didn’t seem to be many shops, bars or restaurants.  Nevertheless it was nice to stretch our legs and have a walk in the crisp morning air after all the time we spent sitting about yesterday.

Walking up steps or up an incline, my heavier breathing and slight light-headedness reminded me that we were at 9,350 feet above sea level; we would have to remember to drink plenty of water to make up for the moisture lost through heavier respiration and therefore hopefully avoid any symptoms of altitude sickness.  So far, so good though.

Back in the hotel I decided to have another cup of coffee before meeting up with the rest of our group for our city tour.  We then met the Celebrity Cruises rep as well as Dianna, our guide for the day.  There are 91 of us altogether, so we were split into five groups so there wouldn’t be too big a crowd of us seeing the sights.  We were group X4, allocated bus number one.

We set off at half-nine through the busy streets and we were pleased to see that not far from the hotel there was a street with lots of shops for us to explore when we returned to Quito after our expedition.  All around us we could see the mountainous landscape as the bus made its way along the winding roads, climbing steadily and affording us fantastic views of Quito.  Our first stop was at the Virgin Mary with Wings, a massive statue overlooking the city.  We alighted from the bus and took a slow stroll around; I needed the loo as one of the things I’d noticed about the higher altitude was the need to pee more often!

We took some photos of the views and the statue, then looked along some little stalls that had been set up by the roadside, obviously with the tourists in mind as they all seemed to be selling the same stuff; bags, snow-globes, dolls, fridge magnets and the usual holiday ‘tat’. I bought a couple of magnets; one for my aunt (we always bring one back for her) and one for someone who we know who collects them.

I was then pleased to see some servicios, so we went to the loo, got washed and freshened up, then got back on the bus once again to continue our trip.

After about 15 minutes our bus driver, Miguel, parked up once again and we followed Dianna through the Saturday morning crowds to a fabulous, very ornate looking Catholic church, called Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus .  Dianna explained that 85% of the population of Ecuador were Catholic (in keeping with most of South America) and she told us we were not allowed to take photographs inside the church as the flashes would damage the artwork and ornate gold-leaf painted pillars, walls and ceilings.

The décor inside the church was breathtaking.  We were told that it took 160 years to build the church and it was easy to believe because of the detail in the workmanship.  The was a lovely vaulted ceiling with a gallery running around it and, below, a large rounded mirror that allowed us to view the artwork on the ceiling and the gilded reflections of the gold-leaf carvings, cornices and pillars.

We spent about half an hour in the cool church, before making our way outside and back to the bus.  The sky was still cloudy, but here and there the sun was making an attempt to come through.

The bus travelled once again for a short distance before we alighted into a large square and Dianna explained we would be having a short walking tour of the city.  It was quite crowded and there were a lot of hawkers selling souvenirs and scarves; we were pleased that they were not too persistent if you said “no, thank you”.

Our next stop was at San Francisco church in the square; we noticed there were a great many pigeons about and we hoped we wouldn’t receive a little present, ha ha.  😉

Inside the church there was a service in progress, so we listened for a short while to the Spanish sermon as well as to the choir singing, all in harmony.  Then we walked outside in the cloisters and looked some colourful birds and plants.  The sun was out by now and it felt very hot, shining down on my bare head, and I wished I’d brought a sunhat.

By this time it was after 12 o’clock, so our next stop was to a restaurant for our lunch.  It must have been reserved in advance because we were told it was a buffet lunch, and we wondered how the restaurant would cope with five busloads of people turning up.  We needn’t have worried on this score, because ours was one of the first buses to arrive, so we were straight in and at the front of the queue.  😊

Lunch consisted of a selection of typical Ecuadorian dishes.  We enjoyed a tasty potato soup to start with, which was garnished with mozzarella cheese and avocado.  Our main course included chicken, lamb, pork, sea bass and fresh vegetables, served with rice and a fairly spicy chilli sauce.  We washed it down with a glass of local beer and finished off with blackcurrant sorbet, a fruit salad basket and some sort of pastry cake.  A delicious and substantial meal to sustain us for the afternoon ahead.

Fed and watered, we waited outside for everyone else to finish.  Several ladies milled around on the pavement selling scarves and wraps in myriad colours; they only cost two for $5.00 so I bought a light green scarf/wrap with a fine gold thread running through it, and a darker green and brown wrap.  At that price you couldn’t complain!  I put the light green one on straight away; I noticed quite a few other ladies in our group had bought them as well.

Presently we all boarded the bus once again for the 45-minute journey to what would be the highlight of today’s tour – a visit to latitude 0˚ 0’ 0”, better known as the Equator, what the Ecuadorians call la mitad del mundo (the middle of the world).  We would, however, be visiting the real equator and not the location where, for decades until the advent of GPS, the equator was believed to be, and where there is a monument to mark the imaginary line around the earth’s middle.  The actual equator is 240 metres away from the line shown at this monument.

On arrival, we excitedly got off the bus and made our way to the museum where we were given a tour guide to show us around.   She explained to us some of the history of the location, starting with the indigenous Amazonian peoples, from the fearsome head-shrinkers to the hunter-gatherers and the various traditions and cultures of the South American natives.  It was all very interesting indeed.

We were then shown into the chocolate centre. Ecuador grows the cacao plants from which cocoa, or chocolate, is eventually extracted; our guide opened a fresh cacao pod and showed us the seeds inside; we were allowed to taste the pulp that surrounded the seed (it was sweet) but not to bite into the seed itself as unprocessed cocoa is very bitter.  We were then shown the various stages involved in the production of chocolate and, at the end, given a small piece of pure bitter chocolate to try; to me, it was far superior to the milk chocolate (e.g. Galaxy or Cadbury) that you can buy back home.  The guide said we could come back after the tour and buy some if we wanted.

We then made our way to the famous Equator, which is indicated by a red line dividing the northern and southern hemispheres.  The line was measured using military precise GPS.  Of course, I could not resist standing astride the red line, with one foot in each hemisphere.  Our group also queued up so we could do the touristy thing and stand behind the Latitude 0˚ 0’ 0” sign.  😊

Afterwards we had some free time so we spent it wandering around, looking at the souvenir shops selling the inevitable Panama hats.  You would think, from the name, that these distinctive hats come from Panama, but in actual fact they are made in Ecuador and must be among the most famous of its exports.  We didn’t buy one, but I might just be tempted later on in the holiday.  😊

It was then time to board bus number one again for the return journey to our hotel.  It took just under an hour and we arrived back at around 4.45pm.  We had an hour and a half before we had to be ready to go out for dinner so, because of our early start, we decided to have a power-nap until half-five to refresh ourselves for the evening ahead.

Afterwards, we got washed and changed; I wore a long cotton tropical print dress that I bought last year in Antigua, as well as my new light green wrap.  My colourful ensemble elicited quite a few comments from our fellow travellers in the lift going down to the hotel lobby.

Off we went to the Restaurant Gloria, where tables had been reserved once again for our trip.  We had done a lot of eating and drinking once again, and I would have to watch my waistline for the remainder of this trip if I didn’t want to gain any more weight than was necessary!

We shared a table with a very pleasant American couple, Mike and Mary, who were from Virginia.  They told us they had retired in their mid-50s (20 years ago) and had taken up farming since then, owning 20 acres of land.  We enjoyed interesting and lively conversation with them as well as a delicious three-course meal which we washed down with a beer in Trevor’s case and a margarita in mine.

The time passed all too quickly before we had to leave the restaurant and return the Marriott Hotel.  On the way out, we were surprised and amused to see all the chefs and waiters lining the pathway and applauding us all as we made our way back to the bus.

We arrived back at the hotel around 8.15pm and we had to go up and pack all our stuff into our cases (apart from what we would need in the morning) as tomorrow we were due to fly out to the Galapagos Islands, and they would be coming at 5.00am to collect our luggage to transfer it to the ship for us – the next time we’d see our cases would be in our cabin.

After dropping the bags off in the lobby, we saw the couple from our flight from Amsterdam whose luggage hadn’t made it; they were very happy to tell us that their cases had turned up at five o’clock, so they could now relax and begin to enjoy their holiday in earnest.

We finished the evening off by going to the hotel bar once again, where we enjoyed a couple of drinks each and I wrote out some postcards I’d bought earlier on.  It was around 10.45pm when we left the bar, so we thought we’d done quite well considering our 6.00am start and the remainder of the jetlag.  We returned to our room and settled down for the night, where we slept very well.  What a great day it had been!